Wikipedia describes Yugo-nostalgia as "a less-studied psychological and cultural phenomenon found among the populations of the former Yugoslavia, in the present-day Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Montenegro, North Macedonia, Serbia, and Slovenia." Yugo-nostalgia celebrates the pre-1991 period. While yugo-nostaligia often refers to a broad range of felt emotions and ideas (solidarity, socialist ideology, multiculturalism, internationalism, non-alignment, titoism, etc.), here we largely focus on objects and monuments from that period.
Having been at the heart of Yugoslavia, Bosnia and Herzegovina abounds with reminders of the Socialst Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, socialism, and the country's role in the post-World War II and cold-war era. There's an anti-fascist museum, a secret nuclear bunker, an underground airport, and a huge number of spomeniks. As always, the list below is not exhaustive, but take a peek at some of what Bosnia offers to Yugo-nostalgics.
Tito's Bunker
A long corridor in Tito's bunker
A traditional Bosnian house stands at the foot of a moutain just outside Konjic. Hidden to the outside world, and secret until 1992, a huge nuclear bunker exists inside the mountain. The bunker was constructed over about 15 years, starting in 1953, and was built so secretly that it is said that upon its completion in 1979 only 16 people knew of its existence. It was built to survive a 20 kiloton nuclear blast. It cost 4.6 Billion US dollars.
The bunker is vast, designed to be home to over 300 people for a period of six months. It has bunk rooms, kitchens, offices, conference rooms, a map room, Tito's personal quarters, and more. Much remains untouched and as it was originally installed, including equipment and machinery that was state of the art at the time.
The bunker was opened to the public in 2011. If you visit, a well-informed tour guide will take you around and tell you about the history and use of the bunker. Interestingly, the bunker also serves as an exhibition space, displaying a range of contemporary art works. Do note that you can't just arrive at the bunker: you should first make a reservation and collect the ticket at the office in Konjic.
Tours take approximately 2 hours and take place according to a set schedule: see above link
Located near Konjic, less than an hours drive from Sarajevo. Note that the office where you buy the ticket is in a slightly different location to the bunker entrance
The ANVOJ Museum is in Jajce, about 2.5 hours drive from Sarajevo. The Museum is hosted in the location of the second session of the Antifascist Council of Nationa Liberation of Yugoslavia. The session led to many of the key decisions for the construction of Yugoslavia, including its declaration as a federal republic.
The museum serves as a reminder of the political and historical agreement between the nations that formed Socialst Federal Republic of Yugoslavia. The museum is relatively limited, but the location is historically monumental.
Museum of AVNOJ (antifascism) details
Museum on the site of the second session of the Antifascist Council of Nationa Liberation of Yugoslavia
Tells much about the histroy of the partisans and Yugoslavia
The go to source for information on spomenkis is the Spomenik Database. Here, spomenikgs are described as "a legacy of a bygone era", "witnesses to suffering", "the embodied mythos of a generation", and so on. Spomeniks are a category of monument, built from the 1950s to the 1990s during Tito's Yugoslavia in honour of the people's resistance against Axis occupation during WWII.
Many of the spomeniks are startling in both their form and size. They are often brutalist, surreal, abstract, and dominating, all at once. They often contrast with stunning landscapes, errupting from the earth in a space with no other built objects. Naturally, many, many, many of these spomeniks are in Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Among the most impressive are the Kozara monument, the Tjentište monument, and the Garavice monument. The closest of all of these to Sarajevo, and the one that is easiest to combine with hiking or rafting, is the Tjentište monument.
Spomeniks details
Spomenik: Tjentište monument
Built in 1971
19 metres tall and 25 metres wide
Located in Sutjeska National Park, just under two hours drive from Sarajevo
The museum covers the Battle of Neretva, allegedly one of the most decisive of victories of Yugoslav struggle against axis occupation, and a victory against the odds. You can read more about the battle here.
The victory inspired the most expensive film production in the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia: the 1969 movie "The Battle of Neretva", which depicts the battle and Yugoslavian struggle against Axis forces in WWII.
Museum of the Battle for the Wounded at Neretva details
Museum dedicated to the battle of Neretva
A key feature is a destroyed bridge just outside (which was destroyed for the purposes of filming a movie)
Scenes from the 1969 movie "The Battle of Neretva" filmed here
Located along the river, just outside of Jablanica, about 1.5 hours outside of Sarajevo
This location can be dangerous to visit because. The site is surrounded by minefields, apparently has some inside, and there is carcinogenic PCB dust, among other dangers.
Željava was an air base that was abandonned in 1992 (and destroyed from the inside) and remains completely abandonned, except for encroaching vegetation. It was one of the largest and most expensive military constructions in the whole of Europe. Aircraft and whole squadrons were were based here, underground and safe from direct airstrikes.
Sadly, over the years, more and more of the original artifacts from the base have been taken as souvenirs or to be sold.
Željava Air Base details
Can be dangerous to actually visit
Abandonned cold-war era military air base, code named Objekat 505
