In And Around Sarajevo

A City Guide for Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina

An aerial view of bridge over the Drina river in Višegrad, an old stone, arched bridge

Old Bosnia

Bosnia and Herzegovina has a rich history. It has had permanent settlements since the Neolithic Age. It has hosted Illyrians, Celts, been a part of the Western Roman Empire, been invaded by German Tribes and the Slavs. Bosnia even spent a short while as a kingdom of its own, before being taken into the Ottoman Empire for over 400 years. Later, the Ottomans ceded control to Austria-Hungary who administered the country for 40 years until 1918.

In recent history, the country has been part of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia, been occupoed by Nazi forces in World War II, part of Socialist Yugoslavia, and ultimately became independent in 1992.

Remnants of many of these epochs remain. Engravings can be seen which date back to 12,000 and 16,000 BC, 13th Century castles still stand, there is an incredibly well preserved Middle Age village, and so much more. Bosnia in many ways is an open museum. You can read more about the history of Bosnia and Herzegovina here.

Mostar

The old bridge in Mostar, a high, single arch, stone bridge
Mostar's famous old bridge

Some would say that no trip to Bosnia and Herzegovina is complete without a visit to Mostar. Depending on the time of year you visit, the first thing you will notice is the change of climate. Mostar is in Herzegovina and is blessed with a Mediterranean climate, making it considerably warmer, drier, and sunnier (it can get too hot in summer). Even the journey from Sarajevo to Mostar justifies the trip - this is true whether you go by car or train.

Mostar is a city in the south of Bosnia and Herzegovina which is famous for its spectacular medieval bridge and the old town that surrounds it. The bridge is a stunning piece of Ottoman architecture and the old town is enchanting, offering the chance to eat and shop for some souvenirs. You can also you can visit the Koski Mehmed Pasha mosque, among other sites.

Mostar details

  • The largest town in Herzegovina
  • Home to the country's most famous bridge and an enchanting, though small, old town
  • Accessible by train from Sarajevo (as well as car and bus)
  • Located just over two hours south west of Sarajevo by car

Read about the Old Bridge and Old City of Mostar here

Počitelj

Počitelj village from afar, an old stone village perched on a hillside
Počitelj village

Počitelj is a small medieval village in Čapljina, about 30 minutes south of Mostar by car, built into the side of a hill overlooking the Neretva river. It's a beautiful location and an amazingly well preserved example of the past.

The village is still inhabited by a dwindling population whose youth head of to the cities and abroad to find work. The village is a bit out of the way, but if you are anyway heading that way, perhaps to Kravice, to Hutovo Blato, or down to the coast, then it is certainly worth reserving up to an hour to see this place.

Počitelj details

  • Fortified vilalge from the middle ages
  • Drive there, park up, and walk around
  • First documented reference to the town dates from 1444
  • Located 30 minutes south of Mostar by car

Read more about Počitelj here

Blagaj Tekija

Blagaj Tekija, a monastery at the foot of a cliff and on a river bank
Blagaj Tekija

Blagaj Tekija is a beautiful monastery, nestled under a cliff (which stretches some 240 metres above), and perched up the source of the river Bune. It's very beautiful. To be more specific, it's a Dervish monastery located just outside of Mostar.

The interior is just as impressive as the exterior and its setting. Elaborate carpets and cushions line the floors of its various chambers. Outside there are some places for coffee by the river and souvenirs.

Blagaj Tekija details

  • Dervish Monastery
  • Constructed sometime around 1520
  • Located 20 minutes from Mostar by car

Read more Blagaj Tekija on their website

Castles and fortifications

An old Bosnian castle up on a hill
An old Bosnian castle

I was planning to select one castle or fortification, but there are so many and I couldn't choose. If you're a real enthusiast and you have enough time, you can try to visit them all. Otherwise, you might just want to check out one that is on (or almost on) your route (as they really are all over the country).

In no particular order, there is Ostrožac Castle, Tešanj Castle, Srebrenik Fortress, Jajce Castle, Travnik Castle, Blagaj Fort, Bobovac, and more; they are in varying conditions and from different times.

You can take a look at the locations of these castles and fortificaitons on this map here and plan accordingly. Though, if you can, perhaps the best is Ostrožac Castle...This said, if you want to keep it close to Sarajevo, Vranduk is a good option.

Castles and fortifications details

  • Castles and fortifications dating as far back as 1333
  • Located all over Bosnia and Herzegovina
  • Ostrožac Castle, for example, dates back to the 16th century

Check out the description of Ostrožac Castle on the World of Castles

Jajce

The waterfall at the heart of Jajce
Jajce town waterfall

Jajce is a town in the centre of Bosnia and Herzegovina and it is teeming with history. Jajce served as the capital of the independent Kingdom of Bosnia and was the residence of the last Bosnian King Stjepan Tomašević (who was executed by the Ottomans).

At the centre of Jajce is a medieval citadel and fortress, high up on a hill, built in the 13th and 14th Century. There's also a beautiful 17 metre high waterfall in the middle of the town, some 14th Century catacombs, an ethno museum, the remnants of a temple for a Persian sun god, as well as some watermills which were allegedly the Balkans first hydroeletric power station.

Jajce details

  • The capital of the independent Kingdom of Bosnia
  • Magnificent 17-meter-high waterfall in the centre of town
  • Located about two an a half hours north west of Sarajevo

Read more about Jajce here

Others to think about

Višegrad

Višegrad is a small town located in the east of Bosnia and Herzegovina; it is home to the world famous Ottoman-era bridge that is the title of the Ivo Andrić novel, "The Bridge on the Drina". You can also visit Andrićgrad, a quarter dedicated to Ivo Andrić. See where Višegrad is here.

Trebinje

This town is beautiful: possibly the most beautiful after Sarajevo. Though it is a bit out of the way, it's a great place to overnight if you are planning to visit some wineries or heading to Montenegro or Dubrovnik. It's also brimming with histroy, including the Tvrdoš Monastery (15th Century), the Arslanagić bridge (16th Century), a walled old town, and a very quaint old square (Trg Slobode). See where Trebinje is here.

Travnik

Travnik was the capital city of the govenors of Bosnia between 1699 and 1850. If you visit you can check out the old town and the museum that is located in the birth house of the Nobel prize winner Ivo Andrić. Located about one and a half hours north west of Sarajevo.

Radimlja Necropolis

This is a large graveyard essentially, but it is filled with carved medieval tombstones called stećak. There are other examples of stećak in Bosnia but this is probably the most impressive example. Located about half an hour south of Mostar.

Badanj Cave

One for the real enthusiasts. This smallish cave has engravings from sometime between 12,000 and 16,000 BC. Located about 45 minutes south of Mostar, the cave is about a 4km hike from the road (route is well marked).

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