I wouldn’t describe the things on this list as activities in themselves that you should necessarily spend a huge amount of time doing. Rather, they are spaces that you can place special attention on observing as you pass through and around the city. They fit into the gaps in your day and occupy moments of transit from museum to gallery, from cafe to hotel. You can flaneur around them, one could say. This said, if you’re the calm pensive type, you may indeed want to spend a decent amount of time with some of the below.
Vilsonovo šetalište
Vilsonovo šetalište
At least in the spring, summer, and autumn, this is a place to go strolling in the city. Wilson’s Promenade, or Vilsonovo šetalište, is a long tree lined street which runs parallel to the Miljacka River in Sarajevo.
On weekends and in the afternoons (after 17:00) traffic is restricted on this street and people stroll, bike, roller blade, and skateboard, under the shade of the trees. It’s popular and often busy.
There are benches on either side where people chat and couples flirt. There are some regular vendors, of special note, a popcorn cart. According to Wikipedia, there are 480 linden and chestnut trees.
Vilsonovo šetalište details
Type: voyeuristic promenading
Traffic generally resticted after 17:00 on weekdays and on weekends, creating a pedestrianized space
Free
Some cafes on the route and a spot to buy popcorn
Address: Vilsonovo šetalište, Sarajevo
The Tram
The tram in Sarajevo
Sarajevo has a tram system that loops along the length of the city. You can take it in a big circle (with a brief wait at one end - take route/line 3, Baščaršija – Ilidža) along a large transect of the city. (Or you can just take it a few stops to get where you’re going).
While you do this, you can look out the window at the city as it passes you by, or you can keep your gaze inside the trolley and watch people go about their day-to-day life.
It is, in many ways, a historical tram system: it was opened in 1885 and was the testing line for the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
This is a local market right in the heart of Sarajevo. Vendors in the covered part sell fruit, vegetables, and flowers. To the side you can also find some other bits and bobs, and on the street close by there are often women sitting with a box selling something they’ve produced.
You can take a walk around and watch people getting their groceries in a marketplace that has stood and operated for many years.
The market also has dark historical importance. The Army of Republika Srpska shelled the market in 1994 and 1995, killing over 100 people. These attacks are described by many as the ‘last straw’ which triggered NATO air strikes against the forces around the city.
Pijaca Markale Details
Type: a local market place + voyeurism
You can buy fruits, vegetables, and flowers
Opens early, closes at 17:00
Address: Mula Mustafa Baseskije
Trg Oslobođenja
The chess board on Trg Oslobođenja
This is a square in the centre of Sarajevo that has a number of benches, some cafes, some statues, and, most famously, a large outdoor chess board.
Whatever the weather (almost), you will find a large group of people (generally elderly men) playing and watching chess. Take a stroll through the square and watch too.
The square also hosts various events, depending on the time of year, such as the Winter Festival.
Trg Oslobođenja Details
Type: voyeristic local gazing
Elderly locals play chess outdoors
Free
Address: Trg oslobođenja - Alija Izetbegović
Cafes and Shisha
Cajdzinica Dzirlo-Tea House
Older Bosnians often complain that the only thing the youth does is to sit in cafes (or shisha lounges) all day and waste time and money.
I’ve a sneaky suspicion you’ll also find some of the older Bosnians there too. I also have a sneaky suspicion that jobs are not as easy to get in Bosnia as they used to be.
Take a break in a cafe. Depending on the season, inside or on the street. Order a Bosnian coffee and just sit and watch people.
Cafes and Shisha Details
Type: voyeristic local gazing
There are cafes and shisha lounges all over - pick one you like and sit down
A coffee will generally cost between 1 KM and 2.5 KM
You'll not find a flat white in most places - that's OK
I’ve had some very strange conversations with taxi drivers in Sarajevo. Some very interesting ones too. Not all speak English, in fact, many don’t, so it’s a bit of a hit and miss endeavour. But, if you do find yourself in a taxi, try to strike up a conversation and see if you leads you somewhere other than your destination.
Gradska Tržnica
A meat and cheese market housed inside a neo-renaissance style building. There is also a restaurant upstairs which you should definitely try.
