You're in Sarajevo, it's late, you've been walking around all day, you fancy a drink. Sarajevo abounds with bars. There are large and small venues, there are obscure, cluttered, and charismatic dens you could mistake for your Gran's living room, there are bustling and quiet watering holes, and more. Identify your mood, and choose a location to suit.
When you're drinking in Bosnia, it's of course sensible to try some of the locally produced beverages. For example, wine has been made in Bosnia and Herzegovina for centuries (and it doesn't get the credit or international recognition it deserves). There's also a beer brewery in the city that was established in 1864 as well as a number of new craft beer producers. Then, of course, there is the rakija (and it comes in many varieties).
One aspect that you will have to contend with, especially in the colder months, is cigarette smoke. A lot of people smoke in Bosnia and a lot of them smoke in bars; in winter, the doors and windows are closed and far fewer people go outside to smoke. Just be warned.
The Board Room
The Board Room bar in Sarajevo
This place has a relaxed and slightly alternative vibe, with a skate and snowboard shop inside the bar. You can order what you would expect, including draft local craft beer, such as Gelender.
The bar also has cosy window seats, allowing you to look out into one of Baščaršija's busy alley ways while you have a drink. Even better, they allow you to order food to the bar from nearby restaurants, such as the falafel place just opposite.
The Board Room details
Pub with a range of drinks
Slightly alternative vibe, situated in a longboard and snowboard shop
$$ Good value
Great location in Baščaršija, close to a couple of places that will deliver food to the bar
This is a small wine bar in Baščaršija. The place has just a handful of tables inside, but during the warmer months the place spills out onto the paved streets of Baščaršija letting you sit and observe life go by with a glass of locally produced wine.
La Cava details
Wine bar
The outdoors section is its real selling point
$$ Good value
Great location in Baščaršija, letting you watch life go by in the old town
Drinking in this bar is a little bit like drinking in a Bosnian's living room. This bar sets the standard for how to make a bar feel like home. It helps that you will always be serverd by one of the owners, who'll gradually begin to recognize you if you keep going back.
This is a nice spot to spend a low key evening or get a good start to the night.
The Bar details
Bar with a range of drinks, including some very rough rakija
A very comfortable vibe, almost like being in someone's living room
$$ Good value
Relatively centrally located, on the south of the river, just hidden off the street
This is a great place to drink Sarajevsko Pivo (the beer that has been produced by the brewery just next door since 1864). The place is like an old fashioned beer hall/pub cross over. It has a huge wooden bar, large wooden pub tables, high ceilings, and a mezzanine floor with balconies overlooking the ground floor. The atmosphere is cosy and relatively grand at the same time.
They also serve a range of traditional Bosnian meals and pub food and often have live music (though this can be too loud at times).
Sarajevska Pivara details
Old pub located next to the brewery that it belongs to
This is a Sarajevo classic that has been there longer than you've been on this planet
$$ good value
Centrally located on the south side of the river opposite from Baščaršija
If you want to sample some Bosnian wine in a more elegant setting, this is a good place to visit. There is a huge selection of wines, including, of course, many from Bosnia and Herzegovina.
The setting is elegant and almost a bit romantic with nice wooden tables and soft lighting.
Dekanter Wine Bar details
Elegant wine bar
$$$ A bit pricier than other locations
Located on a quiet yet central street in Sarajevo which also hosts a range of other bars and eateries
This location provides a very iconic Sarajevo experience. On Monday nights, large crowds of people descend on this repurposed cinema theatre. Tables are dotted around where the theatre chairs used to be as well as up on stage for a better view.
The beer is cheap, the air is thick with smoke, the average age hasn't yet taken people's optimism and energy for life, and there is usually live music, playing classic Bosnian folk songs. It doesn't get swinging until after 10PM, but I would get there earlier if you want to ensure you get a table.
This location provides a another very iconic Sarajevo experience. The bar has been there for a very long time and is known by everyone in the city. The walls, tables, everything, are adorned with a hugely wide range of memorabilia, making it a facinating venue for a drink. The restroom is particularly special.
The energy is intimate and low key and it feels good to sit there with a whisky and while the evening away. Check out the goldfish in the bowl and wonder what to do when the phone on the wall rings...should you answer it, or not?
Zlatna Ribica details
A unique Sarajevo experience
A very, very, yet somewhat aesthetically cluttered bar
This Gastro pub has a lot on offer. Enter into a small alley entrance from one of the main squares in the city and you'll come out into a cosy courtyard filled with tables and patio heaters for cooler nights. There's plenty of space inside too. The pub offers a huge selection of beers (I think about 60 I think) as well as a range of classic gastro pub foods. This pub is almost always busy and has a good energy. There is more than one branch. Have a look at the Gastro Pub Vučko Facebook page here.
This is a very decent bar with nice decor and good vibes. It's a staple location for many Sarajevans. Definitely worth checking out if you've seen the other places. Have a look at the Balkan Express Facebook page here.
